Column
8
Times-Standard • Northern Lights
The joys of a bona fide neighborhood restaurant
Barry Blake
N0R'1'11IL TlMl.ti-Sl'ANDARD
Searching
for solace after another election debacle ... (Forewarning: This piece is not
an explanation of the ridiculous, nor a venting aimed at stupidity, not even
a revelation about rigged voting machines, all of which it could be) I slipped
into one of my favorite little restaurants. Yes, you've got it! It's called
eating, the coping mechanism of the savaged. Granted, eating may not be the
best panacea. But until a better one comes along, eating the
right food in the right place works wonders.
One good remedy for blighted hope,
disappointment, after clap, and other shades of blue is the neighborhood
restaurant, a cultural phenomena found more commonly
in historical environs where, at some point in history, zoning laws suffered a
short-term coma. Little family-owned and run restaurants in the densely
populated boroughs of
Size may qualify some restaurants
in our little rural locale. But just because a restaurant is small or easily
accessible by car does not mean it's a bona fide neighborhood restaurant. Nor
does a franchise poser like Applebee's, no matter how hard it works at its
image, qualify. Genuine neighborhood restaurants are not nationally
advertised - they are hardly advertised at all. In fact, you might not know
they were there unless you were in the neighborhood.
Now
we are getting somewhere. Besides belonging to a neighborhood, the real thing
never has a drive-thru. Inconceivable. Oh, you may be
able to call in for some take-out, but you are going to have to stand there savoring
the lilting aromas from the kitchen while you wait for your order to get done.
This species of
restaurant does have fewer tables (say, 10 to 13), does not serve exotic,
pretentious, faddish food, but does serve fairly priced food lovingly prepared,
welcomes children, has the same chef every night, and allows that being able to
carry on a quiet conversation has value. The house wine is better than good.
Service is quiet, efficient, not
rushed. It is conducted by grownups who know the food, what's in it and how it
is prepared. The check is not presented until you have finished. In the kind of
place we are discussing you will not have to tolerate the waitperson who, after
you have made your selection, acts as if you just won the lottery: "Ohhhhh, great choice! That's the best! Dude, you are just gonna love the marinara in that!" Nor will you ever
hear the waitperson crank out these joyless words: "Are you still working
on that?"
You'll never hear those words at
La Trattoria, a bona fide, neighborhood restaurant in Arcata on Bayside and
La Trattoria is
a simply appointed little room that serves ample, but not excessive, portions
of excellent Italian food. Although the menu is more extensive than it once
was, it remains small. Flavors are well-defined, yet delicate, and well
combined. There are fine choices for vegetarians or those who prefer meat. Real
Italian music - the kind with accordions - is just audible.
James helps with the prep cooking
and runs the business end. His wife Patricia is the chef, responsible for
baking the bread, making some of the pasta and creating the very flavorful
fare. Sausages are handmade by James and the vegetables are locally grown and
freshly prepared. Desserts are unusual and wonderful. Of course the coffee is
real, and they maintain the quaint custom of sugar cubes, which counts for
something in this day and age. Dominated by unpronounceable
Italian varieties, the wine list is excellent.
La Trattoria is an entirely terrific
place to dine, chat or reflect at your own pace.
So let's hear it for bona fide
neighborhood restaurants: Friendly, comfy and cozy, great food, stress-free
zones in stressful times.